Get the inside track from local experts on the best things to do, see and experience in Dublin this winter, from cosy Sunday lunches to cold-water plunges
There’s nothing quite like winter in Dublin. As soon as the temperature starts to drop, the city hits peak cosiness, with smouldering fires in old pubs, restaurants serving up warming comfort food and lights twinkling as soon as the sun goes down. But there’s more to the season than just getting cosy.
You can head out to the coast for a stroll along the sea, go up into the mountains for a hike or build up a sweat in a sauna, all while taking in the beauty of the scenery. And when the evening rolls around, there’s no need to hibernate – instead, why not enjoy a candlelit concert in a cathedral, or seek out one of the city’s new hotspots, such as the Díon Rooftop Restaurant, or the rejuvenated Library Bar (an old Dublin favourite) in the brand-new Hoxton.
Three Dubliners – chef Eric Matthews, walking guide Shane O’Doherty and sauna owner Trevor O’Rourke – share their hot tips and insider secrets on how to get the best out of the city this season.
A Chef’s Perspective
Eric Matthews is the co-owner of Dublin hotspot Kicky’s and was previously head chef in the city’s Michelin-starred Chapter One, where he was the head chef.
For Eric, winter “is the best time of year in Dublin”. While the summer is all about the beach, in the colder months, life heads indoors to comforting pubs where the fires are lit and the lights are low. “I live in Stoneybatter”, Eric says, “and there are so many excellent cosy pubs within a few minutes’ walk, like L Mulligan Grocer, the Cobblestone and Walsh’s, which is my favourite.”
When it comes to food, it’s also one of the most dynamic seasons, according to Eric. “Winter is the best time to cook because you’ve got all the mushrooms and game in season,” he says. “As a chef, it’s exciting.” And while you might think winter isn’t as strong for fresh produce, Eric believes there’s a plethora of hearty, comforting ingredients that you should always order when you spot them on a menu. “You should be looking out for those top seasonal vegetables like pumpkin, kale and leeks – we’re currently doing a whole roasted leek with smoked Ballylisk cheese and hazelnuts at Kicky’s.”
Chefs always love to eat out, and Eric has a rotation of restaurants he thinks are perfect for the colder months, including Dax, Pickle and Hawksmoor, a steak restaurant in the former home of the National Bank of Ireland, where you can dine under a grand 40-foot dome and heritage cornicing. “It’s a beautiful, warm, lovely place to go and have Sunday lunch in the winter,” he says. Using beef from small community farms as well as roast potatoes, buttered greens and onion gravy, the Sunday roasts are comfort food perfection. On a winter’s day, you couldn’t ask for anything more.
A Walking Guide’s Take
While for some, winter in Dublin is all about the indoors, for others it’s one of the best seasons to get out and about. Shane O’Doherty of Shane’s Howth Adventures, which offers hiking, e-bike and boat tours around the Dublin coast, believes there’s a certain beauty to the winter months.
“We are close to the water here in the village of Howth, and every time I imagine anything beautiful, the water is in the picture,” he says. “Winter also gives you conditions that you don’t get in the summertime – it can be turbulent and exciting. But it’s no less appealing.”
If you’ve ever walked the Howth Cliff Path, you’ll know what he means – it’s a jaw-droppingly beautiful trail, no matter what the weather is doing, and is topped off by a walk around Howth itself.
“The village and harbour have so many excellent restaurants, cafés and bars,” he says. “Some of my favourite local seafood is in King Sitric – they have the most authentic seafood, with local crab and Dublin Bay prawns.”
When exploring the city, Shane takes advantage of the fact that it’s often a little quieter. “Dublin is a very old city, and that can be more evident in wintertime.” For walks, he recommends the Great South Wall, which juts out dramatically into Dublin Bay and is topped by a red lighthouse, but with Dublin being a city bounded both by the sea and the mountains, heading inland is also a favourite of Shane’s. “I’ve been into the Dublin Mountains a couple of times recently, and there are fabulous walks there,” he says. “In winter, there’s that more contemplative quietness that comes as the light levels go down and nature goes a little bit quieter.”
The Sauna Owner’s Favourites
Trevor O’Rourke owns Sandycove Store & Yard, with saunas, ice baths and plunge pools, along with a café. Located along Dublin’s Coastal Trail, just a 25-minute DART ride from the city, it’s an area popular with walkers who stroll Dún Laoghaire pier or hike up Killiney Hill, and with swimmers who brave the icy waters at the famous Forty Foot.
Trevor finds that saunas have encouraged more cold-water swimming year-round, with those who usually avoided the chilly months now swimming in the sea year-round. “Every time you take a sauna, you feel very rejuvenated and amazing afterwards,” says Trevor. “But that’s even more true in the winter. I think when it’s cold, there’s more of a reason to get in.”
As well as swims and saunas, Trevor finds that Dublin comes into its own in the colder months. “Dublin is just magical in the winter,” he says. “On my perfect day, I’d head into the mountains for a hike and then find a cosy pub afterwards. Johnnie Fox’s is amazing in the wintertime – you can get a nice little spot and some really good food.”
But activities in Dublin don’t have to be limited to hiking. As a kite surfer, Trevor says that the conditions in the winter are far better, as that’s when the storms kick in. “Pure Magic is based in Clontarf but operates in Dún Laoghaire too, and they’re brilliant for getting people out kite surfing and wing foiling.”
And even if you’re not hopping out of the sea and into a sauna, there are other ways to unwind after a flurry of water sports. “A pint always tastes better when you’ve been on the water,” he says. “I love my local, Fitzgerald’s of Sandycove. It’s a proper old man’s pub.”
A creamy pint after a hefty dose of vitamin sea? Well, that’s what winter in Dublin is all about.
ARTICLE CREDIT; Ireland.com
